Heading through the valley to go bouldering in Tuolumne Meadows? Be sure to get the beta before you go.
Just above Yosemite Valley, the birthplace of American climbing and bouldering sits Tuolumne Meadows. The valley itself is full of granite monoliths and historic big wall ascents. Our personal favorite is the iconic first free ascent (not to be confused with the first female ascent) of The Nose by iconic climber Lynn Hill. Climbing in the valley is hard (to put it lightly), but stick with it and you might find yourself saying "It goes, boys".
When you first enter Yosemite, it's pretty obvious why climbers flock there from all over the world. The seemingly endless granite cliffs and domes tower over you like giants! However, in the shadows of those giants, and nestled in the forests are some high quality granite boulder problems that test your finger strength, your technique, and often, your bravery! With great weather, great views, and great post-send swim spots - Yosemite (specifically Tuolumne) is an excellent summer destination! - Amanda Jaramillo @amandarjara
Tuolumne Meadows is kind of like Yosemite Valley's friendlier little sister. The crowds are fewer, the camping is easier, and the temps are cooler at elevation. Best of all, the boulders are much less polished and perhaps a bit less sandbagged (just a bit).
The Climbing Style in Yosemite & Tuolumne
From the awe-inspiring scenery to the endless boulders, it's hard to have a bad day in Yosemite, says Maggie Gierard. Due to the sheer volume of climbing options, you can find problems in almost any style you want, but be prepared for sharp, unforgiving rock.
Get ready for granite monoliths and pine forests. Photo by Maggie Gierard @mags.at.crags
Almost all the rock in the park is coarse granite, which is amazing for friction (especially in cold temperatures). However, it is rough on the skin, so taking time to care for yourself is extra important, says Maggie. It's hard to be too mad about a little forced rest - the views in the park are spectacular just about anywhere you are. The grading here is notoriously sandbagged, so leave your ego at home and come prepared for a challenge!
Photos contributed by Amanda Jaramillo @amandarjara and Sonia Rackelmann @soniarackelmann
Trip Beta: Travel Tips for Tuolumne Bouldering
Boulderer Sonia Rackelmann reports that there are several places to camp on Tioga road. This makes Tuolumne more accessible than the valley due to how far away you might be camping. Jo adds that once inside park boundaries, you are only allowed to stay within established campsites. The Tuolumne Meadows campsite has several walk-in and "first come first serve" sites. This campsite makes it slightly easier to find a spot, especially on weekdays.
Unless of course, you're ready to plan very far ahead and reserve a campsite in the valley.
Campsites in Yosemite Valley fill up during popular seasons 6 months in advance, when they first open. Harding Flat is a good alternative when trying to camp in the valley, especially the first night you stay since it's on the way in when coming from the west side.
Pro tip: be sure to stop for a dip in Tenaya lake to cool off after a sunny day of bouldering.
Access: Climbing Etiquette for Tuolumne Bouldering
As always, be sure to educate yourself on leave no trace principles for the area. Read more about the seven principles of Leave No Trace (LNT) in our article: What is the Leave No Trace Philosophy?
Tuolumne and Yosemite Valley are home to black bears. This means all food, toiletries, or anything scented need to be secured overnight. You don't want to wake up with a bear nosing around your stuff. So, be sure to use your bear box and follow all designated rules at the campsite.
Girl Beta: Bouldering Videos for Tuolumne
Sometimes it helps to get another woman's perspective on which boulder problems to get on. Below you'll find a selection of female favorites, and a great roadmap on which routes to add to your tick list when visiting Tuolumne Meadows.
Warning: If you're climbing onsight, scroll no further. Spoilers ahead!
Tuolumne Bouldering Videos
Solar Eclipse - V3
Jackie Trejo climbs Solar Eclipse V3 in Tuolumne Meadows
Space Balls - V4
Maddy Voloshin climbs Space Balls V4 in Tuolumne Meadows
Solar Flare - V4
Jackie Trejo climbs Solar Flare V4 in Tuolumne Meadows
The Arête - V4
Maddy Voloshin climbs The Arête V4 in Tuolumne Meadows
The Roof - V4
Amanda Jaramillo climbs The Roof V4 in Tuolumne Meadows
And The Livin's Easy - V5
Sonia Rackelmann climbs And the Livin's Easy V5 in Tuolumne Meadows
Kauk Problem - V5
Jackie Trejo climbs Kauk Problem V5 in Tuolumne Meadows
Cellulite Eliminator - V5
Maddy Volo climbs Cellulite Eliminator V5 in Tuolumne Meadows
Summertime Traverse - V6
Sonia Rackelmann climbs Summertime Traverse V6 in Tuolumne Meadows
Campus Cave - V6
Sonia Rackelmann climbs Campus Cave V6 in Tuolumne Meadows
Ian's Prow - V6
Sonia Rackelmann climbs Ian's Prow V6 in Tuolumne Meadows
Black Matter - V6
Amanda Jaramillo climbs Black Matter V6 in Tuolumne Meadows
White Stuff - V7
Maddy Voloshin climbs White Stuff V7 in Tuolumne Meadows
Cellulite Eliminator Sit - V7
Sonia Rackelmann climbs Cellulite Eliminator Sit V7 in Tuolumne Meadows
For The Glory - V7
Sonia Rackelmann climbs For The Glory V7 in Tuolumne Meadows
Lost But Not Forgotten - V8
Sonia Rackelmann climbs Lost But Not Forgotten V8 in Tuolumne Meadows
Hand Grenade - V8
Amanda Jaramillo climbs Hand Grenade V8 in Tuolumne Meadows
Tank Roof Sit - V9
Amanda Jaramillo climbs Tank Roof Sit V9 in Tuolumne Meadows
Fear and Loathing in Tuolumne - V9
Amanda Jaramillo climbs Fear and Loathing in Tuolumne V9 in Tuolumne Meadows
Solo Endeavors - V9
Amanda Jaramillo climbs Solo Endeavors V9 in Tuolumne Meadows
Space and Time - V10
Amanda Jaramillo climbs Space and Time V10 in Tuolumne Meadows
Big shout out to the climbers who provided videos for our bouldering beta pages! You can follow their sends on the following links:
Amanda Jaramillo: Youtube Channel / Instagram @amandarjara
Sonia Rackelmann: Youtube Channel / Instagram @soniarackelmann
Maddy Voloshin: Youtube Channel / Instagram @maddyvolo
Jackie Lukianov: Youtube Channel / Instagram @jackielukianov
Maggie Gierard: Youtube Channel / Instagram @mags.at.crags
Bridget Kilgallon: Youtube Channel / Instagram @bkall.day
Kim McGrenere: Youtube Channel / Instagram @kimstagraham.mcg
Kristi “Good Beta” Buckley: Youtube Channel / Instagram @kristi.buckley
Would you like to contribute a beta video for your favorite bouldering area? If so, just contact us!
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